Author: jayvee43, Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:14
OK, last night, I put my startor
assembly back together, and bench tested it after i re-assembled it... It
tested at a lot less resistance on the Amps meter.
on to the bike and tryed re starting using a fresh sparkplug in the front
It didn't make any difference, in fact, I think it
turned a little faster, but only wanted to start with the rear cylender
I re-removed the front plug, and the rear and (same
result as picture above)
I tryed a little test, I jumped my
battery with a suitable Garden tractor battery of the same amperage value,
and would you know it, the darn thing started right away, and ran on two,
it ran on two plugs seemed strong, so I unpluged the boost cable, would
you beleive it, it started to sputter on one cyl, two, one etc...
re-pluged the boost cable and it ran ok.
Note: My battery test at
12.89 volts without engine running, and 13.7 - 14.1 average after one
minute of running.
I borrowed a load tester from work and tested
my battery capacity in voltage and amperage, the darn thing is only 200
amps at test, that is in the yellow near the red "fail" battery test
Conclusion, I have a battery capable of reading 12.8 volts
(well within the test limits established here) but without the proper
diagnaustic equipment can't tell the average Joe how much "Amps" are in
the darn battery.
Yet, the bike won run properly below a certain
voltage test, SOOOoooooooo........ I am confused a little, Is it the
Voltage that is charging the Ignition Coils primary circuits, or is it
Amperage that matters most, and once it colapses, the coils produce a
stronger spark with a stronger field produced by a stronger amperage
Can someone explain to me why it is important to have
a fresh, less than 2 years old battery, with all the amps available to us
to run these 500's.
A stupid car ignition coil requires only 9
volts and almost no amps to fire a sparkplug in a cold engine, I'm not
sure I understand this yet?