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ViragoTechForum.com Tech Articles Rust Removal Vid

#1:  Rust Removal Vid Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 3:53 pm

Rust Removal Vid

http://ViragoTech.com/rustremoval.mpg


This can be used on a gas tank, Just put the metal rod in a length of clear hose with just a few holes in it, but making sure the metal rod can't touch the tank.

#2:   Author: yamaguzzi Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:34 pm

thanks matthew

#3:  Re: Rust Removal Vid Author: briareanb Post Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:36 pm

Thanks for the video. He shows that the rust has been replaced by a coat of black stuff. If I were to use this method on my tank (great idea by the way), would I have to get the black out and recoat the inside or what? Any idea?

#4:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:03 am

ttt

#5:   Author: usmc_dad_0341 Post Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:38 pm

That is real cool stuff. I want to find some rusty metal and try it!

#6:   Author: geo Post Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:09 pm

i have always liked this guys programs, fun and informative, wish they were more informative, and no stupid attitude.

#7:   Author: jgc Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:07 pm

i am going to try that looks like it works great and i got plenty of car parts that need help

#8:   Author: foxtrapper Post Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:05 am

Matthew wrote (View Post):
Rust Removal Vid

http://ViragoTech.com/rustremoval.mpg


This can be used on a gas tank, Just put the metal rod in a length of clear hose with just a few holes in it, but making sure the metal rod can't touch the tank.


That won't work. The process requires the anode (or cathode, can't remember which it is) to have good surface area. Wrapping it with a hose blocks that, and kills the system. In the video he used far too small a piece to get good results (btdt), use an old hand sawblade or such. The more the surface area, the better the system works.

#9:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:24 pm

Sure it will work, you just cut holes in the hose where it won't touch metal. The holes can be quiet large.

#10:   Author: usmc_dad_0341 Post Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:43 pm

Wonder how this would work on slightly rusted chrome parts? Would this process "un-plate" the chrome, or leave the chrome and remove the rust?

Chief

#11:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:03 pm

Here ya go, I found this the other day looking for something else

http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5521&highlight=rust

The link inside the thread is this http://650rider.com/Content/pid=6.html

It looks like a good way to remove with electrolysis


note to Chief, at the end of the article the guy mentions that it will not hurt chrome, you be the judge

#12:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:16 pm

ttt

#13:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:44 pm

Really funny that you pushed this to the top Sunday, Matt.

I have a tank that I started in the morning. I don't have the bolts to fasten plates and gaskets to the petcock and sending unit openings, so I used duct tape. It held up for a short while then all my water leaked out.

Backup plan took effect and I used a 30 gallon plastic storage box. Put about 15 or 16 gallon in it with washing soda, inserted tank for a coupla hours and it worked pretty good.

Took it out at dark and dried it. Now after work today I put it back in. I want to see how much better it can get.

Pictures will be posted as soon as I get fresh batteries.

#14:  Re: Rust Removal Vid Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:45 pm

Results from my experiment are mixed. It did remove a lot of rust, but the results were not spectacular. I believe that I should give it another shot when my POR-15 gets here, but I will try a different type of electrode setup, one that has more surface exposed due to the fact that this process works best on line of sight.

My first sucessful attempt ( read previous post ) was of 2 hours duration with 1 tablespoon of Arm and Hammer washing soda for each gallon of water, and a 6amp battery charger.

I used an old clamp setup I had made in the past, on the rear of the tank to attach the negative lead so as to keep the alligator clamp out of the solution. For the sacrificial anode I used a piece of 3/8 inch rebar. To keep the anode from touching the tank, I used a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC into which I drilled 5/16 inch holes.

I did it a second time the following day, but left it overnight. There was not a significant improvement in the previous days results.

I removed it from the tub, rinsed it out with hot tap water, and immediately inserted the nozzle of my heat gun and thoroughly dried it.

I elected not to coat with oil as I didn't want to go through the process of cleaning that out to line the tank later.

Flash rust was almost immediate, and it has gotten a little more surface rust since last night. Nothing to be concerned about, but still needs to be addressed.

I believe if more electrode area were to be exposed then a somewhat better job could be done.

The last pics show the flash rust.

Before pics first.



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#15:  Re: Rust Removal Vid Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:46 pm

Charger, clamp, washing soda.


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#16:  Re: Rust Removal Vid Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:46 pm

in the tub


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#17:  Re: Rust Removal Vid Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:49 pm

end result


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#18:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:51 pm

in another post someone said it took 3 days, did ya drill lots of big holes in the PVC to expose more area, just keep it form touching the metal....

And yes bare metal will flash rust in sec at times.
Id dump some 2 stroke oil in there and slosh it around.

#19:  Re: Rust Removal Vid Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:51 pm

oops !!...left out electrode


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#20:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:53 pm

Maybe rebar is made form to cheap of stuff???

Get a piece of mild steel rod from hardware store....

#21:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:55 pm

Some say to use stainless

#22:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:58 pm

With some 1/4in rod and clear PVC tube could get 3-4 of them in there, both are bendy.

#23:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:59 pm

sounds like a workable idea

#24:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:02 pm

Would be able to get each one like down to the extreme corners.

#25:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:07 pm

my thoughts too.....gotta look around here and see what I have....I know I have PVC...I believe I have some 1/4 inch steel square stock somewhere in the shed....I'll let everyone know when I try again....all in all ...I think it will be OK....just not a fast process.

#26:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:08 pm

Altho, I should mention that the rust is most prevalent just on the top of the tunnel...not much in the depths of the tank

#27:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:09 pm

Also might help with a bigger charger.......
But they aren't cheap.

#28:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:39 pm

Update ...having a bit more success today. I fashioned two plates to cover the petcock and sending unit openings so that the whole tank isn't immersed in solution.

Switched electrodes, in place of the rebar, I used nine insulation stays bundled together and put into the same piece of cpvc.

Filled the tank with original solution and had better results after an hour. The tank was cleaner but with lots of rust scale laying in the bottom of the tank......hmmmm

Emptied the tank, refilled with fresh water and increased the washing soda to approximately 2 TBSP of washing soda per gallon.

Ah Ha !!!......Now I'm getting somewhere.....the solution is now a very rusty brown, whereas before it was sorta clear, not much crud at all, and the electrodes are covered with rust scale and black iron oxide.

I'll stop the process tomorrow and see what I have.

#29:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:25 am

Correction...." Emptied the tank, refilled with fresh water and increased the washing soda to approximately 2 TBSP of washing soda per gallon. "

Should read " fresh solution ", to that, I added more washing soda.

#30:   Author: Jake Post Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:03 pm

My experiment is electrolytic tank de-rusting has been completed. As I initally reported the results were less than expected using rebar as an electrode.

The test was repeated with increased washing soda and using 9 isulation stays bundled together, and the results improved.

Flash rust was immediate and probably just as bad after each try.

My third and final attempt was the best, but still not what I wanted. It removed rust in better quanities and faster. This time I used an old sharping steel as the electrode.

Flash rust was not as rapid, and I put 2 old socks with desicant in them to absorb moisture, but after 2 days it was back to where it needed de-rusted again. I did not add oil or anything to it as I was waiting on my POR-15 to arrive and did not want to go thru the process of degreasing.

After I got my POR-15 ( sealer only, not the kit ), I used white vinegar, it worked reasonably, flushed with hot water. followed by denatured alcohol and dried.

After drying, the next day I discovered powdered rust laying in the bottom of the tank and once again the flash rust.

Now, my POR-15 had arrived. Shop vac removed the powder easily, and I didn't want to use the vinegar approach or eletrolytic method again, so off to the hardware store I go.

Muratic acid was considered as a last resort. I work with the stuff a few times a week and without a respirator at home, was not the preferred route.

Phosphoric acid was what I was looking for and I found some at a Mom and Pop hardware store for $10 a quart.

8 ounces of that and 5 minutes of sloshing around later, I was completely satisfied. I drained,let dry over night, rinsed with warm water, a few ounces of denatured alcohol to remove the left over water. Inserted hose from the shop vac ( attached to the blower end ), left to dry for a half an hour.

Rust ? Yep, but just discolored, like a little overspray from orange paint, besides, the POR will bond nicely with a small amount of flash rust.

8 ounces of POR-15 and I'm a happy camper. Ready for paint, new manual petcock and then I'll mount it.

In conclusion, the eletrolytic approach does work, is cheap, but does take lots of time to work, and will rust soon after if not treated with something immediately. Using high carbon steel will yield better results than using rebar. Rebar is low quality steel and has not much carbon making it very slow to rust, which is why it is used in construction.

I would not recommend this method for a tank, from my own experience, but works great on items you can oil or put some kind of rust inhibitor on soon after.

#31:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:24 pm

bare metal will flash rust in sec if you don't protect it. 50/50 solution of muric acid n water works goood.

You'll never not get flash rust if the metal is shiny clean bare.
ViragoTechForum.com Tech Articles Rust Removal Vid


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