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ViragoTechForum.com Tech Help Plan to go through carbs/synch (SOLVED) 1995 XV1100

#1:  Plan to go through carbs/synch (SOLVED) 1995 XV1100 Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 05 Feb 2010 06:16 pm

I have only gone thorough a carb once before and that was on an '84 B2000, and I managed to get it back together with no pics and mangled instructions in the rebuild kit (instructions used a dissimilar model.) I plan on going through the carbs on my 95 XV1100 soon to get ready for the warmer weather, as well as doing the valves, checking hoses, new spark plugs, etc. Just generally going through it. For the time I've had her (little over a year) it's had an issue where it would shut off on a down shift and I'm hoping this will clear it up. That and it has nearly 50k miles and I know nothing of its service other than it ran really good. I also think there's a jetting issue too (too rich?) but one step at a time. Always started first turn, except for a couple days ago when it turned over a few times and went to clicking like the battery was dead. But, I still have all lights and they seem bright as normal...hmmm...

Anyway, what should I look out for when doing the carbs? Any pointers? Where, if available, can I get a rebuild kit? The FSM also says don't use solvent based cleaners, use petroleum based. Any explanation as to why, and what I should use in it's place?

Once I get this done I plan to 1)do my valves, 2)plugs/wires, 3)synch, then 4)jet/tune.


Last edited by Itsnotme1988 on 17 May 2010 08:51 pm; edited 3 times in total

#2:   Author: Xumi Post Posted: 06 Feb 2010 02:00 am

These are really good reading:
http://viragotechforum.com/kb.php?mode=article&k=70

http://viragotechforum.com/kb.php?mode=article&k=42

Take your time, and keep a clean workspace. Keep parts together with each carburetor, as the jets are different sizes.

Re: cleaner - Spray carb cleaner works well, but don't soak the carburetor bodies and keep the stuff away from the rubber and plastic bits.

Watch for cracked rubber everywhere, fuel lines, carb boots, vacuum lines, diaphragms, etc.

If the rubber is looking old but you want to try and salvage it (if not cracked), try soaking it in armor all.

Pay close attention to the float valve - if it's not spotless, it's bound to overflow fuel into the engine when parked and cause rich running. If there are grooves worn into the rubber, replace them.

The jets are made of brass, and therefore soft.. make sure your screwdriver fits well into the slots when taking them out or you can damage them.

Don't disassemble the butterflies unless absolutely necessary (which is almost never).

Make sure your slides operate very smoothly, and be sure your diaphragms' lip is seated into it's grove correctly as you put the tops back on the carbs.

Consider replacing bowl screws and top screws with Hex head (allen wrench) screws so that future trips into the carbs are easier.

Take pictures during disassembly so you can refer to them during reassembly.


Hrm.. that's all I can think of right now.. if you get stuck, let us know and we'll help.

Good luck - you can do it

Xumi

#3:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: 1986 XV700 Post Posted: 06 Feb 2010 02:19 am

This is a kit for a 750 on Ebay you can use everything in the kits but one of the main jets you can reuse both or just the 125 everything else will work.

You might want to replace the manifolds or boots or carb holders whichever term you prefer, if they are dry and cracked. Didn't see any on Ebay that I knew for a fact would work.

Adjust the valves while the carbs are off and out of the way. You have to adjust them when the engine is cold anyway.

#4:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 08 Feb 2010 11:22 pm

1986 XV700 wrote (View Post): This is a kit for a 750 on Ebay you can use everything in the kits but one of the main jets you can reuse both or just the 125 everything else will work.

You might want to replace the manifolds or boots or carb holders whichever term you prefer, if they are dry and cracked. Didn't see any on Ebay that I knew for a fact would work.

Adjust the valves while the carbs are off and out of the way. You have to adjust them when the engine is cold anyway.


Found this on Ebay Do I need 2 kits or just one?

Also, it has a stock air cleaner and Cobra slip ons. If it's not been rejetted, how far off would it be?

#5:   Author: Xumi Post Posted: 09 Feb 2010 12:29 am

You will need 2 kits - one for each carb.

In general, if only exhaust has changed, you probably can get away without rejetting, just adjust the air/fuel mix screw out a bit, and possibly shim the needles (if it hasn't been done already).


You'll know more after the rebuild - if you're backfiring/running lean and adjusting the screws doesn't fix it, then it's probably time to shim or rejet - but it's my experience says you probably don't have to if only the exhaust is changed.

Let us know how she runs after the rebuild - definitely.And of course we're here if you have questions along the way.

#6:  Opened up the carbs today Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 03 Mar 2010 11:13 pm

Got a couple of questions:

What exactly are these hoses for? For the diaphragms? Should the third one down in the picture ever be full of gas? Should you be able to see through the screen on all 3? I can't see through the last one (same one full of gas) so I think it's the only bad one. What can I replace them with, or do I have to go to the dealer?

Hoses

Where's the best place to get new diaphragms? Found a pair on ebay for $125 shipped.

Holes in One

Hole in One

Dirt in top of carb

[edit] I bought the pair for $125 shipped "These here"

Next I'll be ordering These carb holders b/c the front cylinder one has cracks that are spreading.

The more I'm tearing into this bike the more surprised I am that it ran so well. Rarely used any choke, always fired right up and got 40-44mpg...


Last edited by Itsnotme1988 on 06 Mar 2010 09:43 pm; edited 3 times in total

#7:  Re: Opened up the carbs today Author: Xumi Post Posted: 03 Mar 2010 11:30 pm

Itsnotme1988 wrote (View Post): Got a couple of questions:

What exactly are these hoses for? The diaphragms? Should the third one down ever be full of gas? Should you be able to see through the screen on all 3? I can't see through the last one (same one full of gas) so I think it's the only bad one. What can I replace them with, or do I have to go to the dealer?

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x262/Itsnotme1988/Motorcycle%20stuff/CarburetorRebuild010.jpg
Where's the best place to get new diaphragms? Found a pair on ebay for $125 shipped.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x262/Itsnotme1988/Motorcycle%20stuff/CarburetorRebuild007.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x262/Itsnotme1988/Motorcycle%20stuff/CarburetorRebuild004.jpg


Not sure about the hose - both the middle and bottom one (first pic) look like fuel lines with inline filters to me - but I'll let someone with an 1100 speak on that.

If your diaphragms are not torn/holed, they probably don't need replacement... So before chasing best price on diaphragms, make sure you need them. If they are still intact, spray them down with Armor All and rub them gently with fingers until they are nice and soft, then re-use them.

#8:   Author: vech33 Post Posted: 03 Mar 2010 11:36 pm

hey if you would itsnotme1988, takes some pics as i have a 95 also and thinking bout cleaning the carbs.any info would be great.

#9:   Author: grazingazer Post Posted: 03 Mar 2010 11:58 pm

the large hoses with filters are there to provide calm air under the diaphragms...so that vacuum applied above the diaphragms will lift them [diaphragms] and the throttle slides and allow fuel into the carb venturis

#10:   Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 06 Mar 2010 09:34 pm

grazingazer wrote (View Post):
the large hoses with filters are there to provide calm air under the diaphragms...so that vacuum applied above the diaphragms will lift them [diaphragms] and the throttle slides and allow fuel into the carb venturis


So what would cause the lowest one to fill with gas? (it was the one connected to the right hand carb)

Assembled picture

What would be the best route for replacement? The other two seem fine but that one you can't see light through and the end is split where it was in the RH pod.

Xumi wrote (View Post):

If your diaphragms are not torn/holed, they probably don't need replacement... So before chasing best price on diaphragms, make sure you need them.


As you can see in the pic I posted there are holes in both of them. One has 3 small holes the other has As you can see in the pic I posted there are holes in both of them. One has 3 small holes the other has a larger pin hole.

#11:   Author: grazingazer Post Posted: 07 Mar 2010 02:19 am

a flooding carburetor

#12:   Author: Xumi Post Posted: 07 Mar 2010 06:47 am

You'll find pretty much everything you need here, if you can't find a better price on Ebay.

I'd replace the float valves (don't think you'll find cheaper than the link I just sent - I recently checked prices at about 15 different places for them), the diaphragms, the hoses (since you say they are splitting - take them into an auto parts store and have them match you up a set).

An alternative to replacing the diaphragms is repairing them - they are rather expensive, after all. Get some clear packing tape (the thin kind, not the reinforced kind - they sell it at the post office), and apply a piece just large enough to cover the hole to both sides of the diaphragm. Then paint the tape and surrounding area with liquid electrical tape (very thin layer). If you are careful, you won't change the elasticity of the rubber and you'll get a good seal.

Get some spray carb cleaner and get those carbs cleaned up while you're waiting for parts. Make sure every hole you spray cleaner into comes out somewhere else, and all gunk/oil/dirt/crud/varnish/whatever is Gone.

After you replace your float valves, make sure to check your fuel level after. If you are thorough with your cleaning, and get your diaphragms replaced/repaired, you should be well on your way to getting things working well.

Good luck and hollar if you need anything

#13:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 17 Mar 2010 08:41 pm

What's the best way to remove this cap to get to the pilot screw set?

Cap

Looking at these pics am I forgetting anything else that needs to come off and be replaced/cleaned? Yes, I know I need to clean up my taps from the broken bolts that hold the slide assembly (same one broke on the other carb...) It's my first time using a tap and die crap Seems like I'm going to have quite a few left over pieces from each rebuild kit up to something [evil?]

Side

Top

After I get this one done, the other carb should be a cake walk b/c I'll know what to look for Laughing

[edit] I did go ahead and order 2 new slides for $125 shipped. I don't trust my repair skills quite enough to try and finesse the holes out of the old slides. Trying to do a very thorough tear down, clean and rebuild on them both anyway.

#14:   Author: funkamongus Post Posted: 17 Mar 2010 09:45 pm

drill a small hole in the cap, easy now the head of the mixture screw is just under it. Dont chinger it up. Then screw a drywall screw or something into that small hole, again carefully, and bend it over one way and the other to pry it out. When youre ready to sync, let me know, Ill show you a homemade tool and the easy way to do it.

#15:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 27 Mar 2010 05:32 pm

Finally got the carbs finished up today. About to go do the valves and some other stuff. I do have a concern though. These parts were left over in my rebuild kit and I have no idea where they go. I figured I just didn't remove them but I did find what looked like a used #1 on the floor that had a bit of corrosion on the end...what did I forget doh

Edit: Just figured out 1-4 are the pilot set. I was looking at the diagram wrong I guess... moon So what's #5?



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#16:   Author: mark75 Post Posted: 27 Mar 2010 08:05 pm

#5 washer for main jet??

#17:   Author: nraluke Post Posted: 27 Mar 2010 09:08 pm

Looks like mixture screw replacement parts. Should go on mixture screw #1 spring #4 washer #3 Oring.

#18:   Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 28 Mar 2010 12:48 am

mark75 wrote (View Post):
#5 washer for main jet??


Nope, that washer was in there and is installed. I don't recall ever taking one similar to that off. It's similar to the large screw on the outside of the body, but that rubber washer is a bit smaller...and rubber. That's the only thing I could think of.

#19:   Author: grazingazer Post Posted: 28 Mar 2010 01:52 am

#5 appears to be the needle seat washer

#20:   Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 04:26 pm

Having a heck of a time trying to get them dialed back in... Float levels appear to be correct, both pilot screws are at 2.5 full turns out. Can't seem to dial the synch in.

The front jug also is getting a lot hotter a lot faster than the rear, but the rear will spit every so often once it warms up.

I put in a Fram G2 fuel filter (a lot larger than stock) b/c it was just under $3 and beats the hell out of $13 from the dealer. It only fills up enough with gas to cover the inlet and outlet. Could it be part of my issue?

It had BP4ES plugs in it when I got it and they had good color. I put in BPR7ES and they got black and sooty pretty quickly. Now the BP4ES will darken some too, but take a bit longer.

When synching them, do I just leave the hose from the front manifold loose? It looks like one cylinder wants to pull a lot harder than the other even if I get the oil level to somewhat stabilize. (The hose hooked to the rear jug has the more movement.)

I did remove my AIS and capped the inlets with 1/2" acorn bolts and lined the seam with some high temp black silicone.

#21:   Author: grazingazer Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 05:55 pm

bp4es is absolutely the wrong plug for your engine

#22:   Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 06:28 pm

grazingazer wrote (View Post): bp4es is absolutely the wrong plug for your engine


Yeah, it's just the one that was in it before. Had to have been a band aid related to the trash in the carbs. That's why I have BPR7ES to replace them.

What about my other issues?

#23:   Author: funkamongus Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 06:35 pm

are your jets and needles side specific, and did you get them correct? and our rides really like the ap63's...

#24:   Author: Itsnotme1988 Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 08:24 pm

The only one that was specific was the main jet and that is in correct. I made sure to only do one carb at a time. I used the K&L rebuild kits listed in my earlier post.

Running through the revs, all sounds fine. The popping only seems to be at idle. It will be a few more days before I get to mess with it again since I'm going in for minor surgery tomorrow afternoon.

funk: I love the toaster tank in your avatar. The /5s are some of my all time favorite bikes.

#25:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 03:29 pm

Itsnotme1988 wrote (View Post):
Having a heck of a time trying to get them dialed back in... Float levels appear to be correct, both pilot screws are at 2.5 full turns out. Can't seem to dial the synch in.

The front jug also is getting a lot hotter a lot faster than the rear, but the rear will spit every so often once it warms up.

1) I put in a Fram G2 fuel filter (a lot larger than stock) b/c it was just under $3 and beats the hell out of $13 from the dealer. It only fills up enough with gas to cover the inlet and outlet. Could it be part of my issue?

2) When synching them, do I just leave the hose from the front manifold loose? It looks like one cylinder wants to pull a lot harder than the other even if I get the oil level to somewhat stabilize. (The hose hooked to the rear jug has the more movement.)

I did remove my AIS and capped the inlets with 1/2" acorn bolts and lined the seam with some high temp black silicone.

#26:   Author: PaulSwany New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 03:55 pm

If you have some popping at idle, I'd check for vacuum leaks. Check the carb holders and vacuum lines.

The way I do it is to spray a little ether or WD40 around the boots while it's idling and see if the rpm's change... If so, you've found your leak.

One other think you might want to check is the Boost Sensor. Do a search in the KB for it. If it doesn't hold vacuum or pass the electrical test, you'll have timing problems. I had a bad boost sensor on my 1100 which will make one of my cylinders run hotter.

#27:   Author: funkamongus New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 03:56 pm

Its one of those that really turns heads! A real classic bike!
Good luck with your surgery and let us know how you do...

#28:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 04:57 pm

PaulSwany wrote (View Post): If you have some popping at idle, I'd check for vacuum leaks. Check the carb holders and vacuum lines.

The way I do it is to spray a little ether or WD40 around the boots while it's idling and see if the rpm's change... If so, you've found your leak.

One other think you might want to check is the Boost Sensor. Do a search in the KB for it. If it doesn't hold vacuum or pass the electrical test, you'll have timing problems. I had a bad boost sensor on my 1100 which will make one of my cylinders run hotter.


So, the line I unhook from the front carb holder should be plugged after I unhook it while I'm trying to synch them? It seems to me it's just a BIG vacuum leak i not and nowhere in the Haynes, Clymer, or FSM does it mention plugging it that I've found. confused


Oh, and surgery went well. Just waiting on results in about a week. Had to have an inguinal lymph node biopsied that's been swollen since early December up to something [evil?]

#29:   Author: PaulSwany New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 05:05 pm

Glad the surgery went well!

Actually, I used vacuum gauges connected to both carb boots to sync...

#30:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 05:46 pm

Itsnotme1988 wrote (View Post):

So, the line I unhook from the front carb holder should be plugged after I unhook it while I'm trying to synch them? It seems to me it's just a BIG vacuum leak i not and nowhere in the Haynes, Clymer, or FSM does it mention plugging it that I've found. confused


The end circled is what I'm wondering if should be plugged or not while I'm synching.



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#31:   Author: funkamongus New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 05:53 pm

Oh yeah.. that should be capped. I have a 920 and dont have that line so I dont know where that goes,, Im guessing it goes to the AIS?? I cant help you with that..mine is different..

#32:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 06:00 pm

funkamongus wrote (View Post): Oh yeah.. that should be capped. I have a 920 and dont have that line so I dont know where that goes,, Im guessing it goes to the AIS?? I cant help you with that..mine is different..


The one for the AIS is removed. I replace the 4-way t with a 3 so it's permantley plugged. The one in the pic came off the front carb holder so I could hook up my synch tool. It's for the boost controller. The rear stays hooked up, so when it pulls vacuum, it pulls from the unhooked line. It just seems odd, and why I'm confused... up to something [evil?]

#33:   Author: funkamongus New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 06:05 pm

yeah,, you should have a closed system to test.

#34:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 06:14 pm

funkamongus wrote (View Post): yeah,, you should have a closed system to test.


Okay, just wanted verification. Seems odd that I couldn't find anything about that in any of the 3 manuals I've downloaded... Going to go mess with it now :-) Once I dial that in I guess I'll start fiddling with the pilot screws.

#35:   Author: grazingazer New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 06:26 pm

if the boost controller is not receiving vacuum the bike will not idle properly...it sets the timing @ idle on the 1000 and 1100 models...it is a manifold absolute pressure sensor

#36:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 07:11 pm

It's acting like I'm getting close but the rear cylinder is pulling with enough force to flatten the airline hose in short order, and the oil for the rear jumps a lot more than for the front. The front is pulling nowhere near that hard...wth? tried switching them and that made no difference.

It does seem to be within a hair turn though as a small twist will make the oil very slowly move to one side or the other.

The popping did go away too when I plugged the open boost line with a carb drain screw.

Edit: When I rolled on some throttle, this kinda stopped, but the oil would fly one way or the other. If I stabilize it at 3k like I've read on here, it's then off at idle.... and one of the cylinders has an occasional spit when holding the throttle steady at 3-4k...I'm starting to get very frustrated b/c I feel so close, but so far away blasting I'm starting to think I messed something up inside the carb, but idk what.

Spraying down the boots in PB (don't have ether or WD40) showed no leaks...

#37:   Author: funkamongus New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 08:09 pm

for the bottom reading, you want your idle to be at about 1250 or so, and that is happening by the idle screws,,, the sync screw in the middle makes it go from one side to the other. Are you sure you are on the same sized outlets? On mine the front has two one larger than the other,, they have to be the same size to get a good reading.

#38:   Author: PaulSwany New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 08:59 pm

grazingazer wrote (View Post): if the boost controller is not receiving vacuum the bike will not idle properly...it sets the timing @ idle on the 1000 and 1100 models...it is a manifold absolute pressure sensor


Make sure you get that boost sensor hooked up to the vacuum....

#39:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 09:07 pm

I'm getting it somewhat stable at idle, but as soon as I snap or roll the throttle and go back to idle, it's WAY off again. You can see in these videos. I'm leaning more towards something hanging up internal in the carbs, but have NO idea what's going on...

(I JUST took all of these videos. Only up to 30 secs apiece)

What I'm initially working with:
Vid 1

After a minute adjustment and snapping the throttle:
Vid 2

Hose flattening (it is starting to do this for the front too so it may not be an issue):
Vid 3

Tangent: Sometimes learning new things is a real PITA. I can say thanks though b/c I couldn't have gotten this far without this site. I'm far from throwing in the towel. The urge is getting to me but the money wouldn't let that happen.

#40:   Author: grazingazer New post Posted: 16 Apr 2010 09:43 pm

any vacuum hoses that flatten should be replaced with new ones that don't

#41:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 07 May 2010 12:31 am

(wow, I've been at this since Feb... bawling )

Finally got it all pieced back together today and synched. Set the pilot screw as per grazingazer's instructions ( In this thread). Welll....it's idling great and pulls good until about 3k then it starts to sputter up until about 5k where it will start to smooth back out. I haven't pulled the plugs yet and I'm going to test the jets as I read HERE. It seems to me that it's the needle/needle jet but I don't know why...?

Will update asap after I test the plugs tomorrow. Feeling a little too pissed and blasting and bawling right now to do anything so I think it's time for Beers

#42:   Author: funkamongus New post Posted: 07 May 2010 01:03 am

Have you looked up the word virago?? Its something like mean spirited warrior woman... they fight, no doubt, but when you tame her, and you will, youre almost there, you'll know what the rest of us know,, its worth it.

#43:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon< Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 07 May 2010 05:02 pm

Took a few quick videos of what's going on now.

First one is with only the rear cylinder running. It seems to run smooth and pulls to 5k+ with no issues/stumbles that my untuned ear can detect

First Video

Second is just of the front. It's nowhere near as loud (which I'm sure has some to do with the longer head pipe) but also will not rev beyond 4500 rpms.

Second Video

Third is of both running. You can hear the popping and stumbling. From the other two tests I'm assuming it's linked to the front carb.

Third Video

Also, how far of a run at each throttle position is needed to get a good read on the spark plugs? I'm only able to run in my tiny subdivision (one road 1/5 mile from end to end) since my tags are dead, no ins., blah blah blah. Can it be done in neutral for x amount of time?

#44:   Author: funkamongus New post Posted: 07 May 2010 05:18 pm

Cant do it in a sub division. Needs a load on it. Did you do a valve adjustment?

#45:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 07 May 2010 05:31 pm

funkamongus wrote (View Post): Cant do it in a sub division. Needs a load on it.


Yeah I figured moon

funkamongus wrote (View Post): Did you do a valve adjustment?


I checked them while it was still apart and they were dead on still.

I guess I'm just holding out hope it's something external b/c taking the carbs off is more of an ordeal than I want to go through again this soon shock

I'm going to check to see if one of the nuts I used to block off the AIS is not sealing right, and double/triple check for any vacuum leaks.

Edit: Found a leak on the rear AIS block off. Just tapped it out to 10mmx1.5 so I'm about to go get bolts and washers to seal that off.

#46:   Author: mikesbikes New post Posted: 08 May 2010 08:39 am

The mid-range stumble does sound like a needle jet issue. Since you rebuilt your carbs, I imagine you replaced the needle, nozzle, and air jet and checked to make sure your membranes are good and your slides move freely. (When I rebuilt my carbs I was surprised to find my slides were frozen solid!)
On my 535 adjusting the needles is easy since you can get to the slides without pulling the carbs? On an 1100 can you get the slides out without removing the carbs?

#47:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 08 May 2010 02:19 pm

mikesbikes wrote (View Post):
The mid-range stumble does sound like a needle jet issue. Since you rebuilt your carbs, I imagine you replaced the needle, nozzle, and air jet and checked to make sure your membranes are good and your slides move freely. (When I rebuilt my carbs I was surprised to find my slides were frozen solid!)
On my 535 adjusting the needles is easy since you can get to the slides without pulling the carbs? On an 1100 can you get the slides out without removing the carbs?


Yeah, even replaced both slides. Looks like I'll be having to take them back off shortly.

It does seem to stumble a bit in the higher RPMs too. Somethings definitely not right...

#48:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 08 May 2010 06:43 pm

Thinking I may have found part of the issue (if not the issue.) The nut that holds in the starter plunger was not screwed in more than a few threads. I was enough I could still finger tighten it a bit. Going to finish blowing everything out, check the rear carb, and start reassembly.

That and my needle was assembly backwards doh From the top it was e-clip, needle guide, spring seat. Looking at the ccworks article it should have been spring seat, e-clip, needle guide. Correct?


Last edited by Itsnotme1988 on 08 May 2010 10:03 pm; edited 2 times in total

#49:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 09 May 2010 12:03 am

Finally got it back together! Having one more problem though. Now it's getting a pop on decel. Pilot screw? Lean burn? Related to the AIS/MCV being removed?

When I was setting the screws, screwed all the way in didn't really seem to make a difference. Maybe b/c I had the synch tool still hooked up? I wound up going about a turn out as that seemed to be where it ran the best, but I'm guessing I need to go a hair further? Other than that it seems to be running great! Amazing what happens when you put the needle together bass ackwards doh

#50:   Author: Xumi New post Posted: 09 May 2010 06:33 am

Pop on decel typically go out another 1/4 turn on mix screws, assuming you got everything sync'd up well. Nice job - you're real close!

#51:   Author: grazingazer New post Posted: 09 May 2010 01:55 pm

set your pilot screws no less than 2 1/2 turns out to begin your carb adjustment...otherwise your mixture will be too lean...don't use half measures or shortcuts and record your settings

#52:   Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 09 May 2010 02:02 pm

grazingazer wrote (View Post): set your pilot screws no less than 2 1/2 turns out to begin your carb adjustment...otherwise your mixture will be too lean...don't use half measures or shortcuts and record your settings


2.5 turns was where I started and i didn't notice more than a minimal change by the time I had them screwed all the way in. When I set them before I discovered my mistake with the needle it was an obvious change. I'll try it again in a day or 2 (I really need to get off these third shifts zzz )

#53:   Author: grazingazer New post Posted: 09 May 2010 02:08 pm

screwing them all the way in should kill the engine...you are getting too much fuel from somewhere

#54:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 16 May 2010 04:48 pm

grazingazer wrote (View Post): screwing them all the way in should kill the engine...you are getting too much fuel from somewhere



Could my pilot set be assembled in the wrong order? In what order do the washer and o-ring go back on the pilot screw? I can't tell from any pics i have if it's 1) spring, washer, o-ring, or 2) spring, washer, o-ring. I put it in the first way

A or B in pic?



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#55:  Re: Plan to go through carbs/synch for the first time soon Author: Itsnotme1988 New post Posted: 17 May 2010 08:48 pm

Turns out I did put them back in in wrong when I pulled it all back apart last week. Just finished a test run and she seems to be finished! Pilot screws are both set at about 1 1/8 turns out which seems awfully small... Will update after I'm able to get some real ride time in (got to get money together to make it legal again) so I'm marking this SOLVED!

BurnOut
ViragoTechForum.com Tech Help Plan to go through carbs/synch (SOLVED) 1995 XV1100


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