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ViragoTechForum.com Tech Help Brake Bleeder Valve size (SOLVED)

#1:  Brake Bleeder Valve size (SOLVED) Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 1:29 pm

What size is the brake bleeder valve on a 1982 750? I measure it, but I can't tell if it is 7mm or 8mm, and I don't want to order the wrong one. I was going to get a set of these.

http://www.bikebandit.com/goodridge-brake-speed-bleeder-7mm-x-1-00?WT.mc_id=1484958&CAWELAID=338418819


Last edited by shmalphy on Wed May 12, 2010 1:37 pm; edited 1 time in total

#2:   Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 1:37 pm

I figured it out. I took it to the hardware store, and found out which nut fits on it. It was 8mm x 1.25 pitch.

#3:   Author: Larryb22 Post Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 8:41 am

I just put a speed bleeder on my EN500 and changed the brake fluid. You're going to love the bleeder.
Larry

#4:   Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:23 pm

I changed the line and have been trying to get the air out for a week. I have gone through 2 large bottles of fluid trying to get the air out. I have a mityvac, a syringe, a one man bleeder kit. I took the m/c and caliper apart. I get the pads to move when i press the lever, but I can NOT get any pressure at the lever. I just ordered the speed bleeders, so I really hope this makes it as easy as some say. I had trouble with brand new dirt bike brakes.

#5:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:16 am

it can be a pita, took me one of those giant truck stop semi size bottles to get it.

and had better luck doing a gravity bleed on it, where ya open up the bleeder and let it leak out, but stay close, looks to go slow but turn your back for a sec n the resivor goes empty, suckin air n ya must start all over.

Found over the years that if I got the time, a gravity bleed works out better.

#6:   Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:11 am

well like my friend says, the long way is the short way, as in taking shortcuts usually cost you time in the end.

About how much time should it take to gravity bleed? I have the mityvac, isn't that like gravity but better?

I am trying my best to be patient with these things, but it is really getting tough. The carb was hard enough, now the brakes are totruring me...

#7:  Re: Brake Bleeder Valve size (SOLVED) Author: Larryb22 Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:36 am

I have never had a problem getting air out of a brake system.
Some folks have, and another possible way to get air out (as several people have) is to tie the brake lever to the grip. (Apply the brake and tie it to the grip). Let it sit over night tied up.
I don't know if you have to have the master cylinder cap off or not, but I don't think so.
This has worked a few times as a last resort. In theory the air bubbles will migrate up the hose and into the master cylinder.
Give it a try.
Larry

#8:   Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:43 am

I have done the rubber band trick, about a dozen times. Every night I leave it like that, and every day I go back and bleed some more, and repeat this process to no avail.

I just took off the whole front brake system and dissasembled it for the second time. I am ordering rebuild kits for the caliper and master cylinder, because clearly something is leaking somewhere. I already took them apart and cleaned them and put them back on, but no matter what, I keep getting bubbles, and have not gotten ANY feel on my lever. The lever is clearly pumping fluid out, but somehow there is no pressure getting built up. confused

I was about ready to put my face throught the wall, so I just removed the brakes, put the tools away, and went for a 25 mile ride through the backroads. I feel much better now. BurnOut


Last edited by shmalphy on Sun May 16, 2010 11:46 am; edited 1 time in total

#9:  Re: Brake Bleeder Valve size (SOLVED) Author: Larryb22 Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:45 am

Buy the way when I changed the dirty brown brake fluid on my Vulcan..
I got a large syringe from the farm store and used it to suck out most of the dirty fluid from the master cylinder. Then filled the master cylinder with new fluid and bled the system. (I have a speed bleeder installed).
This saved time and fluid as the new fluid wasn't diluted with the dirty crud fluid. And you didn't have to pump a bunch of dirty stuff through the system before you get clean fluid coming out the bleeder.
Larry

#10:   Author: Larryb22 Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:50 am

I may be wrong, but it seems to me if you are sucking air in, you should be leaking fluid as well.
On some Hondas there is a pin hole in the bottom on the master cylinder. If this is plugged the fluid doesn't flow properly and the brakes are weak. I think you are right to rebuld everything.
Larry

#11:   Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:50 am

The whole system was filled with nasty crud. There was no way to just bleed it as you describe. I had to thoroughly clean the muck, change the line, and I think that the rubber seals got messed up somehow. It seems there is an internal leak on either the caliper or m/c.

#12:   Author: shmalphy Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:51 am

fluid is thicker than air. It is called an internal leak

#13:   Author: Matthew Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:58 pm

gravity bleed takes time, a might vac n other type of bleeding forces the fluid through the system, gravity bleed it moves at its own pace and somehow works out better for me.

Just keep filling the reservoir till you get bored, then check it.
ViragoTechForum.com Tech Help Brake Bleeder Valve size (SOLVED)


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