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#1:  Battery question (Solved) Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:01 pm

A couple of weeks ago I left the keys in my bike and in the "on" killing the battery. I put it on a charger and not it won't hold a good charge for more than a few days. I'm assuming that at this point I'm going to need a new battery. If all possible I would like to get a sealed battery for better performance but there are so many option and little info. What is a good battery to get?

Edit for more info:

When the battery is dead and I get it jumped the bike runs fine but once i turn it off I can't start it again till I get it on the charger. I'm assuming the battery is bad. Oh it is a 2 year old battery and the bike is stored outside in the New England winter.

Bigger problem edit:
Looks like I have bigger problems, with the bike running I'm only getting 11.86v at the battery.

Last edited by KayleeKat on Sun Jun 20, 2010 2:14 pm; edited 6 times in total

#2:   Author: coalstoves,  Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:08 pm

They say they are only good for about 2 years so get what fits the budget, but be certain it is properly sized

For your bike I believe you need the following
Yuasa Battery YB16Al-A2

* Battery Family: Yumicron
* Battery Type: YB16AL-A2
* Voltage: 12
* Capacity: 16
* Dimensions: 8.150" x 2.810" x 6.460"
* Weight: 9 lbs.
* Metric Dimensions: 207.0mm x 71.5mm x 164.0mm
* Metric Weight: 93.89 kg
* Acid Volume: 37.20oz
* Amps: 1.60

#3:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:20 pm

I prefer a sealed battery if all possible.

coalstoves wrote (View Post): › They say they are only good for about 2 years so get what fits the budget, but be certain it is properly sized

For your bike I believe you need the following
Yuasa Battery YB16Al-A2


Last edited by KayleeKat on Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:52 pm; edited 1 time in total

#4:   Author: >moto<,  Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:48 pm

The Drypower SLA 12SB18P should be fine. 18 ah as opposed to 16ah of the standard. 1.8A as opposed to 1.6 standard.

Don't know cold cranking amperage but it has to be 200+

It's fuly sealed and measures 181 x 76 x 167mm as opposed to 207 x 72 x 164mm of the YB16AL-A2.

I'm looking at getting something similar.

#5:   Author: anaman51,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:12 am

Two years is great service length for any bike battery. They're not set up to last like car batteries. You can go one of two routes, and get a cheapo every year or a more expensive unit that will last for two, but that's about it. After that it might start playing tricks on you. Nothing else feels quite like standing next to your silent bike at the side of a country road, watching the sun go down as you discover there's no cell service out past Hooterville.

Dan

#6:   Author: coalstoves,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:20 am

KayleeKat wrote (View Post): › I prefer a sealed battery if all possible.



Any technical reason why you prefer the sealed battery ?

#7:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:32 am

coalstoves wrote (View Post): ›
KayleeKat wrote (View Post): › I prefer a sealed battery if all possible.



Any technical reason why you prefer the sealed battery ?


I've heard they last longer and have more amps at start up.

#8:  Re: Battery question Author: terrip,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:30 pm

I bought a sealed battery for my 750 at the beginning of this season and I like it a lot. I got it at Auto Zone and it cost me about $80. I took the advice of forum members and bought the larger battery with more cranking amps that is meant for 1100's. I don't know if the early 80's bikes had different battery sizes depending on engine displacement, but I would say get the biggest you can fit on your bike, and the more cranking amps, the better.

Another thing you might want to try is checking the fluid level in your current battery. I happened to look at the conventional battery on my Honda last week and all of the cells had almost no fluid, probably from boil-off. The bike started and ran fine, but I still refilled all the cells. With no fluid, the battery has no electrolyte to let the electrons flow around, and the battery won't hold a charge. You might also have a bad cell in the battery - look for a swollen area on the battery. If there is a bad cell, you'll need a new battery.

#9:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:11 pm

I called the shop and have a new battery getting prepped and ill be able to pick it up in a few hours. The old battery is still on the charger for almost 24 hours and still not a full charge, and the cells were full of electorate.

#10:   Author: anaman51,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:01 pm

Believe it or not, on the first generation bikes with the starter issues, a great battery (and good connections) is just about the nicest thing you can do for your whole starting system. Keeping the bike in good tune is a close second. The less struggle the battery has in turning over the bike, and the quicker it starts, the longer that starter and its clutch will perform well.

Dan

#11:   Author: >moto<,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:51 pm

So Kayleekat, which battery did you get?

I want a sealed type as I want to mount it on it's side.

#12:  Re: Battery question (Mostly Sloved) Author: exit27,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:00 pm

I put a sealed, 920 size battery in my 750, and it starts like a dream. Of course, I had to put in a 920 battery box, which meant the 750 side cover wouldn't work, and a 920 side cover won't clear the 750 seat, believe it or not, so I bent a battery cover out of acrylic. It was worth it.

#13:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:02 pm

Looks like I have bigger problems, with the bike running I'm only getting 11.86v at the battery.

#14:  Re: Battery question (bigger problem found) Author: eddiethetech,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:17 pm

Check all connections from the regulator/rectifier (r/r). Make certain they are clean, shiny, bright and snug. This cannot be emphasized enough. Look for cracked insulation on all wires in the charging circuit. Make sure as heck the battery terminals are likewise doing the bling-bling thing. Clean every mother loving electrical connection you can find. Worst case scenario is a bad r/r, which does happen. But ScothBrite is dirt cheap and does wonders for such problems. Look at all the plugs (connectors) for deterioration too.

#15:  Re: Battery question (bigger problem found) Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:21 pm

eddiethetech wrote (View Post): › Check all connections from the regulator/rectifier (r/r). Make certain they are clean, shiny, bright and snug. This cannot be emphasized enough. Look for cracked insulation on all wires in the charging circuit. Make sure as heck the battery terminals are likewise doing the bling-bling thing. Clean every mother loving electrical connection you can find. Worst case scenario is a bad r/r, which does happen. But ScothBrite is dirt cheap and does wonders for such problems. Look at all the plugs (connectors) for deterioration too.


I'll check the connections tomorrow, the past month I've been pulling apart connections and putting dielectric grease in them to keep moisture out.

#16:  Re: Battery question (bigger problem found) Author: eddiethetech,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:27 pm

Don't use the dielectric grease directly on the brass though. It is not a good conductor. Meant only for creating a moisture barrier on the connector bodies. Not sayin' you did, just sayin'.

#17:  Re: Battery question (bigger problem found) Author: Jake,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:28 pm

KayleeKat,

Please change the size of your sig pic to 323px X 240px (max). Mods have their sigs in that same general size and smaller by example.

#18:  Re: Battery question (bigger problem found) Author: Jake,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:47 pm

thanks Much better

#19:   Author: grazingazer,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:19 pm

white lithium grease works better [it's a conductor]

#20:   Author: grazingazer,  Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:21 pm

check your voltage reg/rectifier

#21:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 1:31 pm

Just went threw the system the R/R is toast, but I want to check a fuse but I can not find the location of it. Its the one i have circled in the diagram.

wiring diagram

#22:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 4:04 pm

ok I'm getting between .6 and .4 OHM on all legs of the stator but I'm getting continuity to ground on all 3 leg. i guess the stator is bad as well. this is going to sound like a stupid question but, do i need to drain the oil prior to cracking it open.

#23:   Author: grazingazer,  Post Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 4:29 pm

the fuses are located on the covered YAMAHA panel under the headlight...it is an absolute must that you drain the oil

#24:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:34 pm

Just changed out the stator and R/R and I'm still only getting 12.56V at 3k RPM. The stator tested fine and is not grounded. The R/R is warm to the touch when the bike is running. I'm stumped.

#25:   Author: funkamongus,  Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:41 pm

I hate to ask this.. Is there a little dial on your meter to adjust your reading? Mine had one. A way to set it at 0 and dial it in. Also, was the meter sitting flat? or sitting up, if its that kind. Sometimes that matters, too.

Its the small things that get me, so I tend to mention them. Otherwise, you got GG on it, and he's "the man who knows".. Best of luck!

#26:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:44 pm

funkamongus wrote (View Post): › I hate to ask this.. Is there a little dial on your meter to adjust your reading? Mine had one. A way to set it at 0 and dial it in. Also, was the meter sitting flat? or sitting up, if its that kind. Sometimes that matters, too.

Its the small things that get me, so I tend to mention them. Otherwise, you got GG on it, and he's "the man who knows".. Best of luck!


its a fully digital meter with no dials

#27:   Author: funkamongus,  Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:46 pm

whew... ok!!!

#28:   Author: KayleeKat,  Post Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 2:13 pm

found a rotted connection, replaced it and now i have 14V at the battery at 3K. Thank you for your help. I'm going to marked it as solved.
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